Dream Dives

The question is often posed. "What is the best dive you have had Clive?"

Clearly that is a difficult question and one has to be qualified to answer that. Now I am no Jacques Cousteau, but with a few dives under my belt on a few different sites and different conditions let me talk about wonderful dive experiences that I have had over the last ten years.

Unfortunately diving has come late in my life but not too late. I have however taken to it almost like a duck to water, qualifying as a Dive Master about five years ago and notching up over five hundred dives in the process. I have also started photography underwater which is perhaps not the ideal place to start given the fact that it can get quiet technical while one deals with underwater conditions. So I am limited in experience, but have nevertheless dived extensively in Southern Africa (SA and Mozambique), Mauritius and Seychelles. In addition I have travelled to Indonesia, Thailand, Burma, Maldives, Zanzibar and the Red Sea twice. Heck I have almost forgot, I even had a nice dive in Nice!

Now back to the question. "What makes a good dive site." The answer is not difficult. It has to be predictable. That means you tell someone about it or take him there and he experiences more or less what you have experienced before or described. A good example is the Thistlegorm. It is accessible to most divers and while there may be current and visibility variance, the wreck is always there. Then the site must offer something different, something interesting and some excitement. The latter is always brought by current and the presence of large animals.

No lets talk about criteria. Firstly as a wide angle photographer I unfortunately discount all the good macro sites like Bikini at Sodwana where I hang in the background watching Sue shoot (while I wait for the manta). I swore an oath since I ran into a whale shark ( at very close range nogal) at L'lotte a few years ago with a 100mm on my camera."I will never shoot macro again". I do however now as a compromise dive with a 17-85mm zoom as well to be a bit more flexible. The 10mm fish eye forces you have to really shoot big stuff and very close by. Undoubtedly the site needs to have some photographic interest such as a wreck, good coral, lost of fish life, unusual creatures etc.. Thirdly I must have dived the site at least more than once to prove or validate the site so to speak. This last criteria unfortunately disqualifies many good dives.

So here is my list: The list is not in any order but you can judge for yourself. As you can see I can vouch for the sites in no uncertain terms. I unfortunately did not count if I have dived a site more than six times. I also do not have my own photos for Shark Cave as I did not take photos then, but Sue's will do. I did not include having taken a photo as a criteria..shoo!

1. Manta Reef-Mozambique: 9 times
   
2. Antons-Sodwana; many, many times
   
3. Shark Reef (and Yolanda Wreck)-Ras Mohammad: four times
   
4. L'ilotte-Seychelles: many times
   
5. Thistlegorm-Red sea: six times
   
6. Shark Cave –Mauritius; six times
   
7. Brisaire and Dragon's teeth; many times
   
8. Seven mile-Sodwana: Countless
   
9. Doodles-Mozambique; Quite a few times
   
10. Mannes Bank-Seychelles: Four times
    

Other contenders considered, but disqualified by the criteria or otherwise: Quarter mile, Roonies, Doodles, Pinnacles, Bass City, Grand Bazaar, Johnnies, Bikini, Lembeh straits, Burma banks, Richelieu rocks, Three sisters, Nine Mile-Sodwana, Marianne South and many others.

So why do these dives warrant selection? Clearly my biaise, but I have spent many enjoyable hours in the water at these reefs and have some great photo's to prove it. Sure, I like lots of fish, some pelagic action and some interesting animals but most of all turtles…Need I say more.

1. Manta Reef
   

I spent some enjoyable hours at the end of 2003 and the beginning of 2004 at Paindane where we were introduced to this fabulous reef. It was part of a family "Drive and Dive" holiday, ( Ma, Pa and two boys, what a wonderful time to all be under water together). We actually had our first dive on manta on Xmas day and I just knew it was going to be special when as we were busy kitting up we were joined by a small whale shark who had lost his mommy.

Diving conditions were excellent throughout the next week, but nothing tops our dive (s) on New Years Day. We did Manta twice! That day the viz was never ending and the three cleaning stations were very busy. We lay there at 25m gaping at the spectacle. It was very much like a huge air port with huge 3-6m mantas gliding in for "cleaning". Then on the first dive we had a magical moment when as we were ascending we were visited by a large whale shark and some devil ray. I missed the latter but have a pic of a manta and whale shark (not a great one, but a record). The mantas make what is a very good reef starting with a fish bowl with good schools of big eyes and snappers, a resident large potatoes bass and lion fish plus numerous smaller critters a world class site. In addition the site is in fact a very advanced and challenging site where most operators allow you to undergo a negative descent dive, starting at 16m and ending at almost 29m. One needs to watch your computer all the time, which is not easy with all the animal activity and trying to shoot the ultimate shot. Plankton and current can increase the challenge of the site but in my view it is undoubtedly the best dive site I have dived. What a great family bonding experience.

1. Anton's
   

   
   

   Sodwana Bay is in my view the most underrated dive locations. We South Africans do not promote and value it highly enough. Many prefer to dive across the border at say Ponta because the beach is better and more accessible. Despite that I can say categorically that the quality of diving at Sodwana is better and second to none. I have spent two Decembers there for three weeks diving nonstop and the more you dive the more it surprises and delivers as it has been during the annual shootout in May for the last ten years.
   

   
   

   Anton's is situated on the southern point of two mile reef and many people start and cave and overhangs (or even further up) then migrate to Anton's. I prefer just doing Anton's as it has my personal favourite weakness, large fish schools of zebra, slingers and humpback and blue banded snappers. Set against some colourful corals what more can one ask for. Through in the wonderful collection of other fish, such as baartman, king fish, and various groupers not to mention the resident potato bass and turtle. Yes the current needs to be "work" for the fish to aggregate and it can be a bit of washing machine if the swell runs, but hey on average. I can also tell that even the macro guys like Anton's because I have seen the whip gobies, frog fish, anemones and shrimps that have been shot on this fabulously consistent underwater site.
   

I have had some of my best ever dives here. One can easily strike a hot streak with a turtle, big bass, large schools of snappers, slingers, hump head snappers and much more in 20 minutes, simply awesome!

1. Shark Reef (and Yolanda Wreck)
   

Ever been on a roller coaster? On an underwater roller coaster? Got you! Shark Reef must be one of the best around as its underwater and when the current pumps you get swept along a wild ride from anemone city through shark reef and then around the bend to the site of the wreck of the Yolanda where you can have a toilet seat of you want one. (Sadly they tell me the toilets are no more). I did this site three times in 2002 and once in 2004 and I will always remember the tuna, the king fish, the bat fish and all the beautiful other critters along the wall. It is different to most dives as it is a wall dive t hat you cam start at 20 plus and end up in the shallows. As most red sea dives are wall dives one can either check the wall or the blue behind you and in most cases you will be well rewarded.

Sadly it is unlikely that you will not see a shark (as is the case with most reefs with the name shark in it). The Reef is situated in the Ras Mohammad marine park and is actually offshore and as many of the reefs there submerged islands. The reef is actually made up of three submerges islands and you have to stay on the outside until you are swept round the last one to then get to calmer shallower water and the site of the Yolanda wreck/ When we dived it you could still use the toilets. One needed the toilets as you were also prone to be attacked by some of the most vicious titan trigger fish. Along the way there were critters such as crocodile fish, scorpion fish and others to keep watchful divers occupied.

Our last dive was quite eventful as the current was very strong and swept us around the second island and we there we were three dive masters and two instructors, helpless to get back on, We watched some attempt the swim against the current and suck their cylinders dry. We elected to have a longer dove and explored the back of the island before completing our safety stop.

Diving the Red Sea never disappoints!

1. L'ilotte
   

What can one say about a site where the whale shark lurks. This innocuous looking islet off the north coast of Mahe has so much to offer. It is only 18m deep and prone to viz and current variance. It does however offer fantastic bounty for both macro and wide angle photographers. There is fantastic soft and hard coral along the vertical granite rock face. Shot against dapple light and blue water surroundings can be quite striking. But it is the fish life; large schools of bat fish, snappers, big eyes and most astounding and unusual a large resident school of buffalo parrot fish that are the most striking. These schools typically congregate en masse when there is current. Throw in that whale sharks frequent the area September through January and it is really a special place. Yes it was here that I heard "chariots of fire" play underwater when at 16m Sue tugged me from behind my damn 100mm lens and showed me the 8m whale shark accompanied by a swarm of remora led by some yellow pilot jacks. We immediately abandoned the dive and upon surfacing our skipper had already spotted that in fact there were eight of these beautiful creatures following the schools of mackerel following the plankton. A truly wonderful, bone chilling experience that a few words can never really get across, but those of us that have seen and experience will surely agree and concur while each of us have our reminiscence of equally exquisite times.

Have I spoken about the eagle ray squadrons, Napoleons, schools of yellow kingfish, white tip reef sharks, nurse sharks I can also report that the macro guys have shot a paper fish, partner and whip gobies and even a frog fish at this exceptional site.

L'ilotte reigns supereme!

1. Thistlegorm
   

   
   

   We had just finished a morning dive in wonderful calm conditions near Ras Mohammed on our way to the Thistlegorm when our dive leader stormed in and said. "I have great news." "I have just spoken to the captain and he wants us to sail for the Thistlegorm now instead of tomorrow morning early. Seas are expected to be quite calm and that way we can have an afternoon exploratory dive as well as a night dive. Tomorrow we will do our scheduled dives early morning before the rush from Sharm arrives"
   

   The excitement (and trepidation) in our group immediately increased manyfold. This is what we came for. The Thistlegorm is easily the most dived site in the world (and for good reason). It is an easily accessible wreck lying between 16 nad 30m in reasonable conditions, although viz and current can spoil the party (or increase the adventure). This 10 000 WW2 freighter was bombed by German Heinkel bombers from Crete looking for the troop carrier Queen Mary. The bombers were on their return flight and dropped the bombs mistaking the ship for their target. The Thistlegorm took a direct hit on its ammunition hold while lying at anchor on its way with vital war supplies to the British troops in Egypt. Three sailors unfortunately did not survive but the rest were all taken to safety.
   

In the fifties Jacques Cousteau found the wreck and salvaged most of the bounty including the precious ship's bell. Cousteau never disclosed the ship position and it was only rediscovered in the eighties when people starting diving seriously in Sinai. Since then much damage and pilferage has occurred to the wreck but it it is still a spectacle to behold as it now is home to some special marine life while also affording most amateur a guided penetration dive. On board one can still see the Bedford trucks, motor cycles guns and other supplies.( No bodies, maybe some ghosts)

On the way to the site four of us had enrolled for a Nitrox course (great selling) that would enable us longer dive time on this fabulous site. So we tried to complete ours studying in a hurry to be suitably qualified in the morning….By the time we got their in late afternoon we were well versed and ready to go. We quickly got into our gear and into the flat ocean and descended down to have a recce on the captain's cabin and main control, rooms. After about 40minutes we were back on board and having an early supper, no sundowners. What follows were really special. This was my ( and Sue's) first night dive and ON the THISTLEGORM nogal WOW! We got ready and prepared for a30 minute dive. One of our team was so excited he forgot his weight belts, but at that time we were already down the anchor rope and it was too late to return, So we all helped him stay down with spare weights and stayed below and completed. Strangely even the experienced divers sucked their tanks dry in 30 minutes. Was it thoughts of bluebeard….

The next day we went down to 30m and swam around the large wreck of around 50m. We encountered some current but it was a great experience. Then we did the penetration and what a wonderful experience, finding ones way through dark passages, thank you for torches and guides! Be careful what you touch as rusted steel is no one's friend but what about the scorpion fish masquerading on the rusted parts. Be warned.

Many, many divers frequent this dive every day. Some days there may be as much as 30 boats with about 20 divers apiece. Nevertheless the dive remains worth it and we certainly enjoyed the dive two years later but this time conditions were l less benign and we only did two dives. I will be the first one for another dive. Sadly I do not have many pictures as I was still very much a hacker in those days.

This is a dive with difference!

1. Shark Cave also known as Shark Pit
   

This remote dive is at Pigeon Rock the other side of Flat Island north of Grand Baie Mauritius. Normally white tip or most other sharks make their way away from divers. (How many times do we really encounter the beasts most of our non-diving friends are so scared of?)

I was fortunate to have dived this excellent site about four times some seven years ago and have never forgotten the sheer excitement of this very close encounter with our worst fears.

The dive is quite an interesting one as one descends to about 18m and then one ascends through a narrow tunnel/swim through to a depth of around 10m where around 6-8 divers can hover in amphitheatre watching a large number of white tip reef sharks circle in the cave. Sometimes look behind you at what is bumping and it another one coming through the back door.

I never forget on one of dives with an Italian Gentlemen who was not going to go down without a fight against the "dangerous sharks". As we hovered as quietly as our regulators would allow in a semicircles enjoying the awesome site of the circling sharks , I glanced sideways when I caught a shiny glimmer. I almost drowned laughing as this was our man was holding out a large knife ala crocodile Dundee. Man that was a knife1 Sadly our intrepid hero was also weighted too heavy and steadily kicked everything around him to powder and dust. I thought with irritation, people like that should get a life diving ban but sadly diving in Mauritius had not yet reached the conservation approach when I dived this stunning,must dive site about seven years ago. Will go back soon! The site is best dived in December, at least that is when we dived it with success.

1. Brisaire and Dragon's teeth
   

   
   

   Pick up any dive book of the Seychelles and Brisaire gets a mention as a top site. I have been fortunate enough to have dived this beautiful place a number of times together with its sister reef, Dragon's teeth. The two rock pinnacles are about 6 km off the northwest point of Mahe, the main island of the Seychelles archipelago. The two sites are mostly done on a two tank dive and is accessible from most dive resorts in Northern Mahe. Currents can be a problem so care should be taken what time of the month the sites are dived. Both sites are around 16-18m in depth and the exposed granite pinnacles taper down to the bottom like an upside cone. The coral both soft and hard is in remarkable condition making the diving all the more pleasure-able. Many local experts rate Dragon's teeth as the best dive in Seychelles even though it is often mentioned in a second breath to Brizaire.
   

   
   

   The fish life at both sites is prolific. Large schools of crescent tail big eyes and blue banded snappers abound. There are also many other varieties such as oriental sweet lips, various wrasses and parrot fish, Invariable a number of large Bumphead parrot fish and napoleons come looking at the divers and then shy away. On Brizaire one is likely to see a few white tip reef sharks and sometimes even dolphin and whale shark. A regular site is a number of eagle rays patrolling the area, followed by one or more hawksbill or green turtle. One is sure to find a variety of lion and scorpion fish plus a number of smaller critters. My favorite past time at these site is too hang around these schools of fish. Like clockwork towards the end of the dive large schools of fusiliers come around for closer investigation.
   

   
   

   There is usually some very active pelagic activity especially if the current is pumping a bit. These include some large schools of barracuda and a variety of king fish. Dives last around one hour on 10-12 liters and pass all too soon in the invariable spectacular 20plus viz.
   

   
   

   These dives are consistent good dives that always offer something new and spectacular.
   

1. Seven mile
   

   This is arguable the most famous dive at Sodwana whether you do Mushroom rock, amphitheatre or Northern wall. The dive is a twenty minute boat ride from Sodwana and is surprise, surprise seven miles from Jesser Point. The dive can be prone to some current and the viz is variable. Strike it on a good day and you descend in blue waters to a depth of around 22m. One of the most striking memories I have of this wonderful wall dive at Sodwana is the beautiful walls of red thistle coral covered by large schools of blue banded snappers, goat fish, trumpet fish and all other mostly yellow creatures.
   

   The dive provides unique photo opportunities and on a good day one cannot but think you are in an aquarium. Other life also abound such as schools of surgeon and big eyes, some turtle and invariable many scorpion fish. Sometimes one sights a white tip, grey or even a tiger shark….
   

   Reef conditions can vary but the rich fish and coral life abound making this a truly memorable site.
   

   Seven mile is mostly done around fifty minutes and time flies when one has fun. A dive for many happy returns.
   

2. Doodles
   

   
   

   Doodles is the inimitable "house reef" of Ponta D'Ouro, a small coral formation a mere ten minutes from the launch area. The site has a fish bowl of fish, some interesting pelagic activity, a resident loggerhead, large inquisitive potatoe bass and much more. Most people do one of their qualifying dives at this site. Other people go to Ponta for the weekend and die the site four times despite good weather and availability of other sites. It is similar to Stringer at Sodwana but probably can be dived more regularly as it is deeper and less susceptible to the swell.
   

   Doodles is around sixteen to eighteen meters and despite being only about fifty meters long offers a lot for both the experienced and beginner diver. The site offers many rays and sometimes dolphin and some sharks. Vizability varies from ten to forty meters. On one of my first dive there over an Easter weekend we had less than ideal viz and followed our dive leader's yellow fins, that is three of us on the advanced course. Twenty minutes into the dive, the dive leader signaled us to ascend. Suddenly we realized we were in the wrong group, but we had no choice as we had no clue where the rest of our group was, what a shock as even I had tons of air left.
   

On another occasions the swells were so big that we missed the reef, yes it is a small reef and looking at sand ripples is not fun. Needless to say we recovered and still had an enjoyable 45 minutes.,

Doodles brings many happy memories.

1. Mannes bank
   

   This little known reef off turtle rock near the Mahé airport is a real gem. In variable a mild current pulls you along this rather deep dive of around 22 metres. The reef has abundant coral and fish life and one invariable also se the resident large nurse shark and some other pelagic activity. Squadrons of eagle ray, Napoleons and bump head make the day. It is also one of the few place in Seychelles where one finds the skunk anemone. Both soft and hard coral are in excellent condition.
   

   The reef is submerged making it different to most Seychelles dive sites. The reef is a circular underwater plateau with a wall of around 5-10 meters.
   

These are my selection of dream dives. Not necessarily the best ever but certainly all worthwhile.

Future topics

• The near misses
  
  • Burma Banks
    
  • Richelieu Rocks
    
  • Lembeh straits
    
  • Quarter Mile
    
  • Aliwal Shoal
    
  • Nine Mile
    
  • Pinnacles
    
  • Mahe tilla
    

• More Seychelles diving
  

• The Sodwana Shootout:
  

• Sites to dive in future
  

  
  

  • Cuba
    
  • Aldbara
    
  • Des Riches
    
  • Palau
    
  • Chuuk Lagoon
    
  • ABC islands
    
  • Chagos
    

• The little one
  

  
  

• Recalling the Tsunami
  

  
  

• Drive and Dive
  

  
  

• A diver is born
  

  
  

• Now we take pictures too
  

  
  

• Taking care of Sue
  

  
  

• Diving Family
  

  
  

• Greater diving family
  

  
  

• Diving holidays
  

  
  

• It all started in Mauritius, an adventure in diving
  

  
  

• Recalling the Red Sea