Views from Eden

Eden island is already more than 5 years old

The development is now taking great shape and the new Eden Plaza shopping centre is nearing completion. The  apartments, maisons and villas are about 70% complete with circa 350 units sold.

The marina remains busy (despite) the Somali pirate activity preventing many super yachts from visiting during the winter in the Med. Last summer the beautiful new 85m Sunray (complete with helicopter) was the main attraction This summer it is the equally lovely 110m Radiant that has graced our shores.

To provide some better understanding of  Eden island (my base in Seychelles) see attached  visual material telling hopefully better than words of the beauty of my hangout.

Revisit the tracks

Like Game Drives, Dives are never the same even if you go to the same site on consecutive days or even on the same day. Just ask around I am sure everyone will agree even Andrew.

So there I went back to Ille Seche, remember my blog, -The First Rule of Diving-I was particularly interested to shoot the large schools of silver fin bat fish hovering above the larger schools of glassies with the posse of golden trevally patrolling and having the feast of a lifetime as part of the annual ranga tanga 
(see previous blog).

The day was a scorcher, as only the Seychelles can serve up. Blue skies, no wind, flat seas.....I decided to go early and take those wonderful photos I did not take the day before. We jumped in and the viz, she was great. Well here is the report card!

[Some] of the glassies were still there, but much less of them. There were a few stray (overfed) golden  trevally around, but they were not too busy. None of the large schools of silver fin bat fish made a showing. In fact I could not even see one. So just as I was starting  to hitting despair, I saw a large boulder (Seychelles diving consist of diving around boulders with coral)  covered in glassies. Suddenly I also spotted my favourite animal as I saw a small hawksbill turtle glide towards the boulder as well. I followed him and took some nice once. I also spotted him later towards the end of our hour long dive.




Suddenly the reef was alive once more as this time a never ending school of fusiliers swam past and then followed by smaller posse of golden trevally. I post pictures of the two schools and then also a collage of the dive. Enjoy....

The first Rule of diving.....

So I rediscovered Ille Seche or Beacon Island today. (Just of Mahe in Seychelles for non-Sechellois) We have not dived there for some time and not really at the right spot as we discovered. We had spectacular 20m plus viz, a mild current, but what a show the animals put on.

We saw thick schools of glassies ( part of ranga tanga) with large schools of silver batfish hovering above them followed by an endless, (probably the largest ever school  witnessed by man) Golden Trevally....(jackfish, kingfish)  wow...I just hanged there as the schools patrolled passed in their frenzy food fest.


( The site is almost of map below in NE corner)

Sadly I was hanging onto  a buoy while wife Sue was shooting some interesting macro .....she also managed .some great shots of PINK jellyfish.

I had once again broken the first rule of diving if you call yourself a photographer....TAKE YOUR CAMERA ALONG DUDE!

Going back tomorrow, but with my luck that school of trevally will have decimated the glassies and the viz will be sh....The other lesson is. NEVER DISCARD a dive site, especially the one on your doorstep.

Lets hold thumbs! Wish me some luck please.

Glassy (sardine) run -Parambassis ranga (tanga)

Glassy (sardine?) run -Parambassis ranga (tanga)

Migrations or mass animal behaviour fascinate man and facilitate wonderful photo opportunities.

We all know about the wildebeest (and zebra) migration in East Africa, the sardine run in South Africa, the whale shark of Seychelles and many others. As some know I am a (keen) diver and photo man. I am also a great Seychelles supporter (together with Springboks, Proteas and Man United). I am happy to report that I may have discovered something, I think so in any event. I have been diving the Seychelles now for five years and have observed something interesting, for me at least. I call it the Glassy run! or Ranga tanga!

Every year around December (if it was a good year) it appears that millions of glass fish or parambassis ranga hatch and congregate in giant schools  around the large granitic coral rock underwater in Seychelles. I have now regularly witnessed these around my favourite dive sites off Mahe (Harrisons, Johnnies, Turtle rock). The glass fish attract large schools of giant and golden king fish or trevally (Gnathanodon speciosus)  (or is it jackfish?-Fish names vary across the globe) that feast on the glassies. Other fish like rock cods join in the fund and voila we have a mini sardine run or a parambassis ranga tanga!    As a diver it makes for an awesome experience when these large schools of trevally patrol past you, a few minutes after you arrive on the scene of their feast. Needless to say some good photos may be shot if you remember to push the button and get your framing etc. done.

Sadly it appears that the local fishermen have also caught in the act and they now send out  a small flotilla to harvest trevally when the tanga happens. It reminds me of the chokka boats of Jeffreys Bay (East Cape) which I also saw getting of the ground in similar fashion in the early eighties. I thought it necessary to record and submit my amateur observation of the ranga tanga for comment. (My buddy partner Sue is my witness as is my old collaboteur, Andrew Kemp and his partner Fernanda when they were with us in 2010)

This year was special for me as I had not dived since early January for medical reasons.-I had a total hip replacement earlier this year and it was advised not to dive for at least four months. I made the successful return on the 14^th of December at Johnnies and to my great surprise and happiness the glassies were there. I could not see the swim thru at all, one black hole only. It was not long when we were surrounded by the posse or rather the cavalcade or large school of golden and giant trevally. Awesome sight! They just roll by, nosy and inquisitive and then disappear as suddenly as they appeared, only to return at least once more during the dive. The next day at Harrisons the flotilla was there before us and we had a dive and a similar experience, although we missed the reef initially when three giant buffalo parrot fish diverted our attention. We sadly carried no cameras as I was still building up to diving with camera again.

Two weeks later I thought the tanga was gone when we finally went for a dive (with cameras). As we dropped into perfect viz at Johnnies I was overwhelmed and almost wet my pants (forgive the pun) when I saw the glassies were still there. It did not take long for the posse to arrive. I have some evidence this time…..see below.

Oh by the way it is great to be back as a diving photographer. Wow, did I miss it! Also is the coral not looking great! I have noted a succinct improvement over the last twelve months.

Owning paradise

So what about owning paradise, your own paradise…

Sounds like a good idea…to me at least… while we are around ….for the moment. One man has done this and lived on it for virtually  the last forty years. Meet the owner of Moyenne (the middle one), Brendon Grimshaw. He bought the island with his father  in the late sixties and has lived here since then, outlasting his friends. Now in his mid-eighties he remains in good health and is the main source of information to daily tourist visiting his island.  

It is an ideal stop over for day tourists. All you do is hire a boat or even take your own boat or kayak and saunter across from any of the neighboring islands and voila you are in Brendon’s own private reserve. The smallest marine park in the world-the Moyenne Marine  park!  There  you can snorkel, lie on the beach or take a walk around the island, all at leisurely pace. One may even do some treasure hunting as a pirate’s treasure is supposed to be hidden on the island( nothing found yet), or one can have some refreshments and a light meal at the Jolly Roger after/during your island visit!

The island takes about an hour to circumvent at your leisure. There is much to see and do. The island has been reclaimed painstakingly by Brandon and his local friend Rene Lafortune. The latter has since sadly departed. You find most [all] of the indigenous plants and trees of Seychelles. There is also a small museum with some interesting facts on the island, some known and unknown graves and even a small chapel.

Moyenne was first inhabited about 160 years ago when it was given as wedding gift to its first two citizens. People stayed on the island until after World War One after which it became desolate until Brendon ( a journalist) came here in the late sixties and bought it in and started living there with his father and friends. Together they restored the ideal to its past glory and present state.

Brendon lives on the island together with about 160 giant tortoises. Seychelles and the Galapagos islands are the only place on earth where these giant slow coaches are found.  He has an annual out of country health check, otherwise his routine is to get weekly provisions in Mahe together with the local Rotary Club lunch!

Brendon is a key person to understand the solitude, bliss and lack of stress of his chosen life style. Is it a style for everyone, not sure about that but he certainly looks young for his age so then we should think again. The question remains how do you kill time, ask Brendon on your next visit. Ideal to cure writer’s block and nowadays with the cloud one can be anywhere even on Moyenne, assuming you have 3G.

All very civilized and distressed! Enjoy Moyenne!; Only a short twenty minute boat ride from either Victoria harbor or Eden island marina; Right next door to St Anne and Cerf island. If you cannot get there soon  have a look below.